Engine Coolant Temperature High Shutdown

Common Symptoms

• Compressor shuts down hard and displays E002 on the IPM panel LCD
• High coolant temp warning light illuminates before shutdown, then unit trips off
• Engine will not restart immediately after shutdown, even with key in RUN position
• Coolant overflow reservoir is boiling or pushing coolant out of the overflow tube
• Radiator or oil cooler fins visibly packed with dust, debris, or caliche mud
• Unit was running hard in high ambient temperature conditions just before shutdown
• Fan belt is loose, squealing, or missing entirely

Probable Causes (Ranked by Likelihood)

• Plugged radiator or oil cooler fins blocked by dust, caliche, or debris common on oil and gas pad sites Very Likely
• Low coolant level due to external leak at hose, clamp, water pump, or head gasket Very Likely
• Failed or stuck thermostat not opening at operating temperature Likely
• Broken, slipping, or missing fan belt preventing adequate airflow across the radiator Likely
• Faulty coolant temperature sensor sending false high reading to the IPM panel Possible
• Water pump impeller worn or damaged, reducing coolant circulation Possible
• Internal coolant passage blocked by scale buildup or rust in high-hour units Less Likely

Step-by-Step Diagnostic Procedure

1. Before touching anything, let the engine cool completely. At least 30 minutes. Hot coolant under pressure will burn you badly. Do not remove the radiator cap on a hot engine.

2. Once cool, check the coolant level at the overflow reservoir and at the radiator cap. If the system is low, look for obvious external leaks at hoses, clamps, the water pump weep hole, and around the head. Low coolant is a very common cause after long hours on dusty sites.

3. Walk around the unit and inspect the radiator and oil cooler core face. On P-series units the cooler stack faces the engine fan. If you can see daylight through the fins, you are fine. If the core face is caked with dust, mud, or debris, that is almost certainly your problem. Blow the fins out from the clean side (engine side) toward the outside using compressed air. Do not use water on a hot core.

4. Check the fan belt. With the engine off, press firmly on the longest span of the belt. You should have no more than about 1/2 inch of deflection. A loose or cracked belt means the fan is not moving enough air. Replace it if it is glazed, cracked, or frayed.

5. Check that the cooling fan is spinning freely by hand with the belt off. A seized fan hub is uncommon but possible. Reinstall and check belt tension before restarting.

6. Restart the unit and let it reach operating temperature. Watch the coolant temperature reading on the IPM panel LCD. Normal operating range is roughly 180-210 degrees F depending on engine model. If it climbs past 220 degrees F and keeps rising with clean fins and correct coolant level, suspect the thermostat or water pump next.

7. If you suspect the coolant temperature sensor is giving a false reading, compare the IPM panel temp reading against an infrared thermometer pointed at the upper radiator hose. If the hose reads normal temperature but the panel still shows high temp, the sensor or its wiring harness back to the IPM panel is the problem. Check the sensor connector for corrosion or a backed-out pin.

8. Thermostat and water pump replacement require basic hand tools and are moderate difficulty. If you find no obvious cause after the steps above, call a Doosan-authorized service tech and connect to the engine ECM with the appropriate engine OEM tool to pull any stored engine-side codes alongside this IPM panel E002.

Frequently Asked Questions